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Use this form to contact me with any questions, suggestions, or concern that you have. You can also contact me directly at contact@studiofortyseven.co.


Brooklyn, NY 11221
USA

Studio Forty Seven is a Brooklyn based design studio focusing on androgynous bespoke silver jewelry.

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Journal

This journal is intended to express the intentions and actions associated with Studio Forty Seven. It gives an opportunity for people to delve into my thoughts as I document my design process.

PREMIERE: AN INDUSTRIAL COLLABORATION BETWEEN AMELIA HOLT & STUDIO FORTY SEVEN

Tomer Emmar

Originally published at Milk.xyz by Emma Banks

It’s said that two heads are better than one—and there are few projects that embody the power of collaboration more than Tomer Emmar (of Studio Forty Seven) and Amelia Holt‘s new release. Combined with photographer Bryan Anton‘s shots of the artist, this is one premiere you don’t want to miss.

Titled simply “Minimal Session 002.18”, Holt’s new mix reflects her inspiration in the experimental realms of dark and industrial art. Emmar’s jewelry shows off that same aesthetic, though with a different end goal: beautifully-designed, androgynous non-binary jewelry. Thus, the two are somewhat of a perfect pairing.

“My idea for this collaboration was to partner with diverse disciplines of art and design to complement the mood of my music,” Holt says. “[We are] working on this exciting project to further prove our commitment to collaborate across disciplines in hopes of fostering stronger connections in our community.”

Clearly, Holt, Emmar, and Anton are hitting all the right notes (no pun intended). Listen to Holt’s new mix below, and keep scrolling for more from Holt and Emmar on their artistic collaboration.

Talk about the inspiration behind the collaboration. What inspired you to create this mix?

Amelia: The inspiration for the mix came from the fact that Brooklyn has such an immense history with warehouses and factories. The industrial part of Brooklyn is still very active. The sound of my mix is inspired by Veronica Vasicka and her label, Minimal Wave, which feature dark mechanical pattern and a do-it-yourself production. Also, in general, living in NY and observing people’s way of dealing with all the noise around them, it’s very robotic.

Tomer: The collaboration was rooted in Brooklyn’s industrial landscape and manufacturing sector. Since 3D printing is in the heart of Studio Forty Seven’s jewelry design process and Amelia’s mix has an industrial vibe to it, it resonated for us to work together. Aside from the jewelry, I styled the photoshoot and programmed the visual projections on the fly. We wanted to evoke a dark and mysterious aesthetic combining different layers of technology.

Since it’s Women’s History Month, can you tell us what your experience has been as a woman creative? What does womanhood mean to you in the 2018 landscape?

Amelia:  I came to the city without any connections so it’s been quite a challenge in the beginning. I knew I wanted to pursue something creative in fashion but it wasn’t until I got the job at Red Bull Studios that I discovered I wanted to DJ. I met great DJs and producers and decided that I wanted to embrace the obstacles that come with it.
In 2018, I want to see more unity and trust between women and I feel women are going to help each other out and build one another up. This is not a competition, this is a community.

Tomer:  I can’t speak for women but as part of the LGBT community I can say it’s extremely important to give a voice to minorities because we have so much to offer.  I’m excited to see more and more women collaborating with one another and, in general, doing their thing with conviction, confidence, and pride! It’s really an inspiring time!

What are your plans for the rest of the year? Any exciting news you can share?

Amelia:  I’m slowly picking up the groove and booking for gigs in Brooklyn. I am looking forward to DJ at the A/S/L? art show by Fish presents at Living Gallery on March 25th.The art show is about our relationship with technology. Tomer and I are also working on a special project in the realm of music and product design.

Tomer: I am currently prototyping a one-of-a-kind custom-made flash drive combining jewelry and technology. Amelia and I are really excited about building a bridge across our disciplines of design and music. I am also working on an art project revolving around gun control; it’s simply a conversation that our country needs to have until we come to a conclusion that will keep everyone safe.

Creative Direction: Amelia Holt & Tomer Emmar
Photography: Bryan Anton
Music: Amelia Holt
Makeup: Tere Cortes Pinal
Styling & Digital Projection: Tomer Emmar

The Ephemeral Ring

Tomer Emmar

 

e·phem·er·al
əˈfem(ə)rəl/
adjective
1. lasting for a very short time.
2. can also refer to a fast-deteriorating nature of an object to a person.

 

In the past few months, I have been fascinated by the impermanent and transient nature of the human experience. 

The Ephemeral Ring is the materialization of the future emerging from the fleeting yet perpetual present moment. The plated exterior is meant to wear out over time revealing the distinct design underneath its original surface. In essence, the intended function of the 14k gold plating is to create a ‘structured’ transformation over time.

Ephemeral-Ring-Jewelry

The Ephemeral Ring is a concept designed to provide an additional level of dimensionality to the jewelry. The purpose of the Ephemeral Ring is to challenge the prevalent notion of plated jewelry. Instead of using 14k gold plating to cover a base metal such as copper or brass, this concept celebrates the process as an integral part of the core aesthetic of the object itself.

Design Specs
Material: 14k Gold Plated Sterling Silver + 14k Gold Inlay
Process: 3D Printed Wax Resin // Cast Sterling Silver // 14k Gold Inlay // 14k Gold Plating

The Ephemeral Ring will be on display, for a limited time, at the Macchiarini Creative Design Gallery from August to October, 2017.

Etsy is Bad for Business

Tomer Emmar

Many of you have told me, "I love your jewelry! Have you thought about selling your jewelry on Etsy?" And typically I say "Yes, I have thought about it." Here are some reasons why I believe Etsy is bad for business:

Limitations

Etsy's platform supplies their sellers with one generic template with the idea that one size fits all. Every store is defined by the same restrictions and there is no opportunity to differentiate your business from your competition. Personally, this is already a deal breaker because branding is an important aspect of any successful business. Aside from the brand image, clients who are shopping for well crafted and handmade jewelry deserve to have a unique and personal experience. Etsy's controlled environment does not allow for customization of the shopping experience; layouts, design, terms, policies, fees, and features can change on a whim and may not always align with the values of your brand.

Quality and Assortment

The community on Etsy is rampant with sellers who are literally selling the same product one after another. Many of the products on Etsy are made by questionable Chinese manufacturers and are not truly handmade. Etsy enables their community to tarnish the reputation of handmade jewelry. This level of neglect and carelessness takes advantage of uninformed customers who are understandably drawn to lower prices. Unfortunately, Etsy and other marketplaces create the perception that handmade jewelry should cost pennies and it has the potential to harm studio jewelers who have developed their sense of craft and design over the years.

In the images below, you can see an example of a seller on Etsy claiming her product to be a "handmade item" where the same product can be found on AliExpress (the Chinese equivalent of Amazon) for a fraction of the price.

 "Handmade item" on Etsy for $30.

"Handmade item" on Etsy for $30.

 Same "handmade item" on AliExpress

Same "handmade item" on AliExpress

 Identical jewelry assortment from different sellers on Etsy.

Identical jewelry assortment from different sellers on Etsy.

Now, I must admit there are many hidden gems on Etsy. A good way to find the high quality products is to filter the search to display price from high to low.

Pricing

As a responsible jewelry designer and small business owner, it is important to fairly compensate everyone in your supply chain, including yourself. Etsy is oversaturated with sellers that are trying to climb to the top by racing to the bottom. Essentially, people on Etsy price their jewelry so low to compete with other shops selling the same product with hopes that their jewelry shows up at the top of the search. 

Sustainable business practices are important for the longevity of a brand. If the price is the only differentiating factor between a business and its competitor then the business is simply unsustainable. 

Last Words

The premise of Etsy's Mission Statement is ideal and wonderful. Unfortunately Etsy has grown too big that the only thing that matters to them is their bottom line. I avoid Etsy because I simply believe that my clients deserve better than shopping in an online version of a flea market. If you are looking for an alternative to Etsy, I highly recommend Squarespace.

Explore Studio Forty Seven's design process.

Behind the Scenes

Tomer Emmar

My approach to design is largely influenced by formal education as an Industrial Designer in San Francisco, CA and Melbourne, Australia; Industrial Design is a diverse discipline that embodies a variety of processes within the creative realm.

As a multidisciplinary designer, I innately believe that the fundamentals of the design process are nearly identical across all design disciplines. By no means strict, here's the journey I take in my design process:

Ideation: the ideation part is the very first part of the process and it comes from a moment of clarity where I have a vision for the silhouette of the object in mind. As soon as I see the object, I sketch the object in orthographic view so I can continue into concept development part of the design process.

  Scan of Sketchbook with Orthographic Silhouette chewed by yours truly,  Rover  the doodle.

Scan of Sketchbook with Orthographic Silhouette chewed by yours truly, Rover the doodle.

Concept Development: during this phase of the design process, I ask myself what are relevant details I want to feature in the final object that will add value and create desirability while at the same time maintain the androgynous design language of the brand. The concept development phase aids in discovery through exploration. 

Prototyping: the prototyping phase is an integral part of the process because it allows a concept to materialize quickly and effectively. Prototyping helps me get a clear idea of what the look and feel of the object could potentially be. This phase may feature several variations of one design and typically take 3-4 iterations before I settle on the final design. As Mies van der Rohe said, "God is in the details."

Testing: this stage of the design process runs along the prototyping phase; in a way, previous phases are never fully halted at a stop and are continuously improved upon. Ideation, research, development, prototyping and testing are worked on in the pursuit of finding the perfect balance for the final form; and then, again. 

Design (Reiterate and Finalize): this phase prioritizes simplifying the form to achieve harmony between the divergent design elements. It is important to be striving for comfort and usability paralleled with gender neutral design. Below is an example of how the design elements (scale, silhouette, geometry) played a role in the design process for Hex. Under consideration of design and aesthetics, it was decided to go with a circle for the inside the shank to follow the form of the finger.

Manufacture: the manufacturing process is a marriage between the innovative world of 3D printing and the traditional world of lost-wax casting. The product is first 3D modeled on the computer and then it's sent to a 3D printer for output in high-resolution wax. Soon after the model is 3D printed in wax, plaster is poured around the wax to create a mold for the final design. As soon as the plaster dries and the mold sets, the wax is heated up to create the negative space for the object. The wax is melted away to form a cavity inside the mold with the same geometry as the original CAD model. The molten silver is then poured into the mold to later be pulled away and reveal a raw piece of silver. The raw silver is mechanically polished to remove unwanted elements such as sprues and other support structures. The formed raw silver piece is finally hand polished to the desired look and just then it is ready to be adorned.

 Source:  i.materialise

In conclusion, my design process isn't strict and it has a level of fluidity to it; it does tend to follow a familiar path but there are always different experimentations. My design drivers and the language I attempt to communicate through the designs are non-binary, androgynous, and gender fluid. My design constraints lie within the realm of scale and proportion as well as choice in materials that communicate honesty and quality. I am influenced and inspired by the Bauhaus school of thought, the constructivist art movement, and contemporary maker movement. Inspiration is everywhere and I am truly grateful to notice it anywhere I go.

Follow me on Instagram to see the process more closely.
Check out the archive to see past work.

Take Care

Tomer Emmar

Jewelry Care Instructions

Studio Forty Seven wants you to enjoy your jewelry for years to come, and perhaps, pass them on eventually. You may ask yourself, how shall I care for my jewelry? Below are some suggestions to ensure longevity for your jewelry.

Wear

Studio Forty Seven's collection is designed for every day use with comfort and durability in mind. Naturally, silver has an inclination to oxidize and age in unique ways. If you would like to avoid the darkening of the surface, it is suggested you avoid wearing your jewelry while showering, bathing, cleaning, or exercising; make sure to remove jewelry before applying any lotions or using harsh solvents.

Maintain

To maintain a shiny surface on your jewelry, Studio Forty Seven recommends that you use a jewelry polishing cloth. Typically, a polishing cloth usually has two sides, one for cleaning and another for buffing. Cleaning your jewelry regularly can help prevent the dull or cloudy look on the surface of your jewelry. 

Vault

For everyday use, Studio Forty Seven recommends that you use a dedicated space to store your jewelry. You can simply use a tray or one of Studio Forty Seven's ring holders.

For traveling purposes and long term storage, Studio Forty Seven recommends that you store your pieces separately in the small microfiber bag provided with your purchase. This will ensure maximum protection so that pieces do not damage one another.

Branding Studio Forty Seven

Tomer Emmar

I find myself frequently facing the question "what does forty seven mean?," so, to all those who wonder, here it is. 

I choose Studio Forty Seven because at the moment I'm focusing on bespoke silver jewelry; the 47th element in the periodic table is silver (Ag), hence the name.  

Many jewelers and designers name their studios after their own names; typically first name and last name followed by an anchoring word such as designs or jewelry. My desire was to brand something that could expand and develop beyond what it started as; create something dynamic with potential for growth. That's why I didn't anchor the idea to my name.  ☺️

Additionally, when I look into the future, I can vision the studio expanding. Studio Forty Seven resonated with me because the name has the ability to transform. I hope to, one day, partner with people, transform it into a collective, feature other artists, or experiment with other materials or avenues without having to rethink the image of the brand in the context of what it is or what it means.  

The name Studio Forty Seven is relevant to its inception, yet it has the ability to expand into something new while maintaining its heritage and where it all started.  

 
fortyseven1200
 

The Intention

Tomer Emmar

ESSENTIALISM—AN ESSENCE THAT MAKES THOSE THINGS AND CONCEPTS WHAT THEY ARE.

When I started thinking and conceptualizing my work, I wanted it to be meaningful to the spirit of the wearer. I started thinking about the idea more deeply than how jewelry is seen on the surface level and I looked into the history of jewelry. I found that throughout history, people traditionally adorned themselves in jewelry as an attempt to denote status; a symbolic association with a tribe, social class, or even a rank.

My intention with designing for Studio Forty Seven is to shift the materialistic aspect of jewelry into an opportunity for the wearer to associate it with a positive feeling or an intention; perhaps both.

I started researching different aspects of psychology and I came across the theory of Psychological Essentialism

Essentialism is the view that, for any specific entity (such as an animal, a group of people, a physical object, a concept), there is a set of attributes which are necessary to its identity and function.[1] In Western thought the concept is found in the work of Plato and AristotlePlatonic idealism is the earliest known theory of how all known things and concepts have an essential reality behind them (an "Idea" or "Form"), an essence that makes those things and concepts what they are

Essentialism is a conceptual worldview that is not dependent on objective facts and measurements, it is not limited to empirical understanding or the objective way of looking at things.

 

The Conception

Tomer Emmar

Studio Forty Seven, at its conception, is a side project I am working on while residing in the beautiful city of San Francisco.

The idea crossed my mind when I was attending an art opening at the Mezzanine in downtown San Francisco where I saw many artists, fashion designers, and jewelers. I have always been a fan of jewelry and that night I felt inspired to purchase a new piece and support the local artisans of the Bay Area. Unfortunately, I made several rounds and I was disappointed that I didn't find anything even though there were so many options. When I reflected on my experience I realized that I didn't find anything because all of the designers were women targeting women; and, naturally, their design aesthetic was feminine.

 CHILLIN PRODUCTIONS ANNIVERSARY. Photo by  Noelle Dexter

CHILLIN PRODUCTIONS ANNIVERSARY. Photo by Noelle Dexter

I saw an opportunity that night and I was inspired to tap into a category that is largely overlooked; elegant jewelry featuring primarily androgynous elements made with high quality precious metals.

More information about myself can be found at the About page or if you have any other questions, do not hesitate to post a comment or email me directly at contact@fortyseven.co. I would love to hear your thought.

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